1: Demand that it's attached to the hot water (machine need less power to heat it up, less chalk...AND Cheaper(your boiler is better at producing hot water))
2: Clean it once a month, especially the pump intake (has often sand like stuff on the ground)
3: DONT use tabs but powder.
However, Industrial grade stuff is more expensive (from the power standpoint), but better for the water (not stupid aromas)
> 1: Demand that it's attached to the hot water (machine need less power to heat it up, less chalk...AND Cheaper(your boiler is better at producing hot water))
Most machines actually specify that the water entering the unit has to be at least 49C. To meet this you usually have to run the hot water on the kitchen sink—which then wastes water. (And may be where people get the mistaken idea for pre-washing: they're running the sink anyway.)
AFAICT, the only brand that can officially be connected to the cold water (10C) supply is Miele, which have an internal heater. And the official specs show that they actually use less overall power with cold water. This is probably because (a) some of the cycle can use cold water, and (b) a smaller quantity overall needs to be heated up compared to running the tap. It does take longer, time-wise (~30m), though; see page 45:
BSH says cold water is okay, warm water only up to 60 °C (!).
I'm under the impression most dishwashers follow pretty much the same design. There's an inlet valve, usually just the aqua-stop itself, which feeds into the water/ducting plate, which also acts as a heat-exchanger between waste water and water intake. Another two valves control the water softener (to switch between normal operation and regeneration using salt water, which is what the salt you put into it is for). Fresh water runs into the pump sump, which contains the waste water pump, which is controlled by a water level switch connected to the inlet (which also turns the aqua-stop off). The pump sump has a third connection, going into the pressure pump, followed by the water heater, that then goes to the washing arms. The water-clearness sensor (which is just a light barrier) is located in this path.
So overall there are remarkably few actuators and sensors:
- Three valves
- Two pumps
- One heater
- One solenoid to release the powder / tab latch
- Outlet temperature sensor at the heater
- Thermal cutoff integrated in the heater
- Water clarity sensor
- Level sensor
> Ever wonder how dishwashers work? Are you ever bummed by the performance of yours? Well, this video can answer your question and possibly provide you with a solution!
1: Demand that it's attached to the hot water (machine need less power to heat it up, less chalk...AND Cheaper(your boiler is better at producing hot water))
2: Clean it once a month, especially the pump intake (has often sand like stuff on the ground)
3: DONT use tabs but powder.
However, Industrial grade stuff is more expensive (from the power standpoint), but better for the water (not stupid aromas)