Google API keys have been used for ages on the frontend. For example on Google Maps embeds. Those are not possible without exposing a key to the frontend. They weren't secret, until Gemini arrived.
If one ignores 70% of the documentation, it makes for a demonizing blog post about it, sure.
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API keys for Firebase services are not secret
API keys for Firebase services only identify your Firebase project and app to those services. Authorization is handled through Google Cloud IAM permissions, Firebase Security Rules, and Firebase App Check.
All Firebase-provisioned API keys are automatically restricted to Firebase-related APIs. If your app's setup follows the guidelines in this page, then API keys restricted to Firebase services do not need to be treated as secrets, and it's safe to include them in your code or configuration files.
Set up API key restrictions
If you use API keys for other Google services, make sure that you apply API key restrictions to scope your API keys to your app clients and the APIs you use.
Use your Firebase-provisioned API keys only for Firebase-related APIs. If your app uses any other APIs (for example, the Places API for Maps or the Gemini Developer API), use a separate API key and restrict it to the applicable API."
The only reasonable design is to have two kinds of API keys that cannot be used interchangeably: public API keys, that cannot be configured to use private APIs, and private API keys, that cannot be configured to use public APIs. There's no one who must use a single API key for both purposes, and almost all cases in which someone does configure an API key like that will be a mistake. It would be even better if the API keys started with a different prefix or had some other easy way to distinguish between the two types so that I can stop getting warnings about my Firebase keys being "public".
It'd be much better to call them something like "API usernames" or "API Client IDs". Though I also dislike the naming of "public keys" in asymmetric cryptography, for the same reasons, and I'm definitely not winning that fight!
But I think you have to add every Meta domain into that container manually. The other one sounds like it's got them all already put into their own container. Convenient if you one day decide to set up an account on Instagram but never used it before, and forget to add it to the container.
I'm not sure if the 1800kWh is correct here. I'm guessing it's one of these two:
- You're talking about what heat pumps use in electricity. However, the system would store heat. If a heat pump uses 1 kWh to get 3 kWh of heat into the house, a heat based storage system needs to store the 3 kWh.
- You're confusing gas & electricity. 1800 m3 in gas would be about correct. However, that's about 9,5 kwh per m3 in heat.
There are interesting heat storage methods though, there is a long term basalt heat storage system in 'Ecodorp Boekel' in The Netherlands. It uses solar to heat during the summer and heats the homes with that in winter.
Due to size though, it only really works in 'collective' communities. The bigger the size, the more heat it can store per size.
It really depends on just how cold it is outside and how much (or little) heat you are comfortable with inside. For mild winter weather (+5 to -5°C) and 18°C in the cabin, the range drops to around 80km or so. On a sunny summer day, I can easily get about 130km on Norwegian country roads, probably more.
When driving to the Netherlands in the months between March and October, the consumption has been around 8.3kW/100km. The car is light and has little tech that consumes power.
Since the car has no heat pump, heating the cabin has a noticable impact on range during cold winter days.
That said, it is a really good car to drive in the winter as the cabin gets warm in no-time and the windows in the front and back are heated and melts away thick ice in about a minute, even in really cold weahter! When doing normal commutes, the shorter range does not matter at all. But I would probably not drive to the Netherlands in -10°C during the winter!
Yeah, me included, until we where going to NL and suddenly was left with no other option becuase our diesel car broke down.
I expected a nerve wreaking trip with the eUP, but got slightly more confident after some planning. Using abetterrouteplanner.com and a charging card from elli.eco, I could drop by almost any charging station and avoid apps or paying with a credit card.
Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands is flush with chargers, so a range of ~130 is actually more than enough.
After the first trip was a success, we have repeated the trip up and down several times, and will take the same trip this October. And by success, I mean a very respectable Wife Approval Factor and a pleasant trip all-around.
The only real downside I have found is that after the 7th or 8th charge, the battery start to get hot, and since there is no cooling the charging time drops from ~10 minutes to more like 18 minutes. But that usually only happens at the last one or two stops.
I know this is far outside the norm and I plan to get another used electric car with some more range at some point, but I'm in no hurry. Having tried what I thought to be almost impossible, I was surprised to find how painfree it actually was.
The absolutely worst efficiency I've experienced was 2.7km/kWh at 120km/h in DS3 e-tense. That was a v1 Stellantis drivetrain, without a heat pump. Peugeot e208, Corsa-e, etc. are the same thing. Stellantis sucks at EVs, especially their first gen, so that's probably really the worst case scenario (apart from EV's nemesis: towing non-aerodynamic trailers at high speeds).
So if you take an EV's battery size in kWh and multiply it by 2.7, that's the worst range you will get in km.
We get 190 miles of range in winter at highway speeds if we are careful. 2019 Chevy Bolt EV with a factory-new battery from 2021.
It was $20k used.
We also have a 2014 BMW i3 with a worn-out battery. This was designed for ~50 miles between charging, or you could get the one with a little petrol engine as a "range extender". Mine can only do about 40 miles in winter. Later models doubled that, and most i3 cars on the road do 1.5x what I'm getting. But I got it used for $5000...
Does the UK not have an option for hourly-pricing? That's usually where as a consumer you can have the most gains. In the summer, with solar panels, my energy bill is negative (in The Netherlands)
Some suppliers (e.g., Octopus Energy) offer half-hourly tariffs whose rates track the day-ahead wholesale market and are published daily. Prices usually fall when supply is abundant (e.g., windy/sunny periods)
The UK has a stupid system where the pricing for everything is determined by the most expensive thing in the mix:
>The UK’s electricity market operates using a system known as “marginal pricing”. This means that all of the power plants running in each half-hour period are paid the same price, set by the final generator that has to switch on to meet demand, which is known as the “marginal” unit.
i.e. if you have 99 units of solar but have 100 demand, 1 unit of gas plant fires up to fill it then all 100 units are compensated at the gas rate even if the wind was cheap.
https://trufflesecurity.com/blog/google-api-keys-werent-secr...
https://medium.com/@ahhyesic/your-google-maps-api-key-now-ha...
https://www.malwarebytes.com/blog/news/2026/02/public-google...
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